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ASTM D6193-16(2020)
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A′. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A′ shall be interlooped with itself and with thread A.
FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.
FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the center line.
FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.
FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths, passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.
FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material from the underside and immediately passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed through the material and the loop and immediately passed back through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive the succeeding stitch.
FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch length and then passed back up through the material. The needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed through the material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross pattern of stitches on the surface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches on the underside of the material.
FIG. 10 Stitch Type 205
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop with itself or any other thread or threads. The thread is passed completely through the material by means of a double pointed center eye needle and returned by another path. This class of stitch simulates hand stitching.
FIG. 11 Stitch Type 301
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.
FIG. 12 Stitch Type 302
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.
FIG. 13 Stitch Type 303
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A and A′ and A″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.
FIG. 14 Stitch Type 304
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the same as stitch type 301 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 15 Stitch Type 305
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B and the interlacing shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 16 Stitch Type 306
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top surface of the bottom ply of material.
FIG. 17 Stitch Type 307
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: four needle threads, A, A′, A″, A′″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, A′″, shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.
FIG. 18 Stitch Type 308
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as stitch type 304 except that successive pairs of stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 19 Stitch Type 309
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be left on the underside of the material.
FIG. 20 Stitch Type 310
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B, and the interlacings shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 21 Stitch Type 311
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. Threads A and A′ shall be pulled back so that the interlacings shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.
FIG. 22 Stitch Type 312
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the same as stitch type 311 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 23 Stitch Type 313
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed horizontally through portions of both plies of material without penetrating the full depth, and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.
FIG. 24 Stitch Type 314
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating the full depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.
FIG. 25 Stitch Type 315
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as stitch type 304 except that successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern.
FIG. 26 Stitch Type 316
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one continuous needle thread, which after the first needle penetration is divided into two parts: part one, needle thread A, and one reel thread, A′. In subsequent penetrations thread A is passed through the material and interlaced with thread A. Thread A shall be pulled up so that the interlacing is midway between the surfaces of the material or materials being sewn. This stitch type is identical to stitch type 301 except for the initial stitch.
FIG. 27 Stitch Type 401
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the bottom ply of material.
FIG. 28 Stitch Type 402
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads A and A′ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 29 Stitch Type 403
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A, A′ and A″ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 30 Stitch Type 404
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 401 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 31 Stitch Type 405
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 402 except that successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 32 Stitch Type 406
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 33 Stitch Type 407
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads A, A′, and A″ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall be passed through the material and shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 34 Stitch Type 408
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